Cook-Through Blogging

Bloggers are slicing and dicing their way through every recipe of a cookbook. Here are excerpts from some of these blogs (thanks to Wall Street Journal Article on 28th May 2008), and the cookbooks behind them.

"French Laundry Cookbook" by Thomas Keller

French Laundry At Home by Carol Blymire:

"Here's where the fun really begins. Splitting a pig's skull? Wow. Really? There's also text in the book about how to make sure you get the cheek meat and the meat at the temple… (Note: If you're going to try this dish, your butcher will do the sawing-the-head-in-half part for you, and I highly recommend letting him. This is not easy. Not at all. Especially when you have a crap saw and even your power tools couldn't really do the job neatly or easily.)"

"The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating" by Fergus Henderson

Nose to Tail at Home by Ryan S. Adams:

"This dessert is very, very unusual, but in a good way. Texture-wise it was like an ultra thick, rubbery custard. The pudding by itself had a mildly sweet, seaweed-like flavor to it. Though when combined with the jam and whipped cream, the pudding began playing the part of a backup singer. When I took a bite, the pudding was still there and still an important part of the song, but muted. The jam and the rich whipped cream took center stage, but they would have been way too sweet without the balance of the Caragheen."

"The Gourmet Cookbook" by Ruth Reichl

The Gourmet Project by Teena Gerhardt:

"Consequently, if I made it again I would simply leave the cherries out of the filling, and still bring the cherry flavor into the dish with the sauce. My other complaint was that it was nearly impossible to extricate the crust from the pan. I buttered very generously, but still, in the battle between the pan and the cake, the bottom crust sided with the pan every time. It was a shame too because the crust was very delicious!"

The Gourmet Project by Kevin Casey:

"The chocolate filling is wonderful, and everyone loves ganache, but the cookie itself was my favourite part. I really like flourless cookies like this, the almonds provide substance, but the structure is all from the meringue. The outer surface of the cookie was smooth and crisp, the interior was like almond sponge candy, soft, but with just a little bit of toothsomeness. Despite all the sugar, they miraculously avoided being too sweet."

Cooking Gourmet by Melissa Palladino:

"I'm not sure what it was about this dessert that just didn't do it for me. Maybe it was that the caramel (yes, another dish with caramel) added a bitter note. Maybe it was that it wasn't quite sweet enough to offset that tiny hint of bitterness. Maybe it just wasn't the right time of year and would have gone over better in the summer when ANYTHING cool and creamy hits the spot."

"Baking: From My Home To Yours" by Dorie Greenspan

Tuesdays With Dorie by Laurie Woodward:

"Brianna was on the same wave length when it came to doing her pie. She did a parfait too, an elegant presentation that ends up looking like the grown up version of the one above. She skipped the meringue, and I can't help but give a little cheer. Whipped cream is so perfect with the lime flavours, and it made this so fluffy and light looking. The zest on top really adds the right sophistication to her dessert."

"Maida Heatter's Cookies" by Maida Heatter

Mondays With Maida by Cathy Irish:

"Catelynn turns one in a few days so family and friends gathered this past Saturday to celebrate… The theme was turtles and I got my inspiration from the invitation which had a cute stylized turtle on it. I decided to use marzipan this time (the gum paste I used for the decorations on Cassidy's first birthday cupcakes was tasteless - bleh!). I used chocolate jimmies for the eyes and little white non-pareils to decorate the shells."

"Mexican Everyday" by Rick Bayless

Mexican Everyday with Rick Bayless by Mark Pearson:

"An awesome non-mayo-based potato salad. Perhaps one of the best such potato salads I've ever eaten. Although it's slightly oily, I quickly ceased noticing so it can't be a big deal. Still, next time I'll cut down on the oil a bit… Leftovers had a stronger tuna odor, although still lacked much tuna flavor. I'm not sure if I'll bother adding more tuna next time I make this dish. Consider this as a warning to simply think of the dish as a potato salad, nothing more."

Bon Appetit Magazine's Top 100 Dishes

Project Recipe by Chris Hall and Bridget Moloney:

"I have never enjoyed scavenger hunts. I like foot races (even though I have actually never won a single one), and the idea of treasure. But the combination leaves me cold. I mention this only because shopping for my Roasted Asparagus with Fresh Fava Beans and Morels was a downright quest... So, when faced with the task of picking out FRESH (as in, still in the pod) favas, I was a little nervous. I was not quite sure what they looked like. It turns out neither does one of the guys who works in the Union Square Whole Foods produce section."

Cooking Bloggers

Latest Web Bloggers Give Cooking
The Books a Whole New Meaning
May 28, 2008 Wall Street Journal

Generic food blogs are the scrambled eggs of culinary blogging. They require little in the way of skill and next to nothing in terms of equipment -- just a digital camera and a broadband connection.

A particular kind of food blog, however, has become the genre's Canard a la Presse Tour d'Argent. These are "cook-through" blogs, in which someone picks a cookbook and then doesn't stop cooking and blogging until the dishes for every recipe have been washed and put away.

COOK-THROUGH BLOGGING

Excerpts from cookbooks and the bloggers who are slicing and dicing their way through every recipe.

The necessary ingredient: You need to be a little crazy.

Carole Blymire, a Washington, D.C., public-relations consultant, for example, has been writing "French Laundry at Home" since last year. With no real cooking experience beyond Thanksgiving dinner, she is tackling the 130 or so recipes in Thomas Keller's "French Laundry Cookbook," which may be the most technically challenging American cookbook ever written.

No matter, says Ms. Blymire, "I just opened it up and said to myself, 'Let's see what happens.' "

The site has become a huge hit in the food blogosphere, winning awards and attracting 4,000 to 5,000 visitors a day. It also has become the template for many other such cook-along blogs, with pictures of the dish at various stages of development and a rating of the final result. Personal asides are often folded in as well. (These are, after all, blogs.) Ms. Blymire uses a Miss Smartypants persona and often brags of her two loves: New York City Mayor Mike Bloomberg and bacon.

Cook-along bloggers say they start projects for any number of reasons: to learn culinary basics, to expand a cooking repertoire or simply to prove to themselves that they can stick with a big project from beginning to end.

Ryan S. Adams, who works in Austin for computer-graphics company Nvidia, says he was inspired by Ms. Blymire's work to start on "The Whole Beast," the offal-and-all British coobook that has a cult following in the foodie world. With dishes like "Cold Lamb's Brains on Toast," Mr. Adams says finding willing diners can sometimes be as challenging as the cooking. Ditto shopping. "I don't know where I am going to get a woodcock," he says. "I may have to go out and hunt one myself."

Perhaps the most impressive of all the cookbook blogs are the three devoted to the 2004 edition of Gourmet magazine's "The Gourmet Cookbook" -- all 5¼ pounds and 1,300-odd recipes of it. Befitting this culinary Everest, all three writers are overachievers in their professional lives.

Teena Gerhardt, the first blogger to tackle the book, got her Ph.D. in mathematics from MIT and now muses about algebraic topology at Indiana University. Kevin Casey is a graduate student in neuroscience at McGill University. Melissa Palladino, of Rockport, Mass., is working on a cookbook of her own, a Western-gourmet take on Ayurvedic food from India.

The three are cooking at different rates, posting one to seven recipes a week. The project is requiring not only time but also an open wallet. The grocery bills for the entire Gourmet collection is expected to run between $30,000 and $40,000.

Cookbook bloggers typically don't print the complete recipes on their blogs in an effort not to undermine sales of the selected cookbook, which is usually treated with deep affection, even reverence.

A typical attitude is that of Laurie Woodward, the Pittsburgh mom who runs "Tuesdays With Dorie," devoted to "Baking," the latest cookbook by Dorie Greenspan, one of country's most popular baking writers and a master of American and French classics.

"Dorie is like a god to a lot of bakers," says Ms. Woodward. "And she is so nice about checking in on our blog. Sometimes, she even posts something on it, and everyone goes nuts when she does."

Ms. Greenspan said in an interview that she is, indeed, charmed by the blog and considers such sites to be part of the new Web world in which professional food writers like herself are learning to work.

Perhaps the first of this genre was the Julie/Julia Project from 2002, in which Julie Powell, posing as something of a Manhattan underachiever, cooked all of the recipes from Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." Those Web musings (it had no pictures) went on to be printed in a best-selling book, and are now being made into a movie starring Meryl Streep.

Few of today's bloggers expect such breakout success, though Ms. Blymire has filmed a pilot for a possible Food Network show and also has had early talks about doing a cookbook.

The fact that the viewership on the blogs is far below what's needed to earn a living is fine with these writers, who say there are ample other rewards for their efforts. Cathy Irish of Maryland, who in November -- after three years, 45 pounds of butter and a pint of vanilla extract -- finished baking everything in "Maida Heatter's Cookies," says she came away from the experience with many new friends, including several with whom she has since visited in real life.

That same sense of community has also struck Mr. Casey, one of those cooking "Gourmet." After he started his project, he learned that his uncle had done something similar with the "Larousse Gastronomique" during the 1970s.

"He was this lone little guy doing this and enjoying it, but he didn't have an avenue to share it," says Mr. Casey. "Now, we can all share it with the whole world."

Tonight's menu - Chez Marc De la Bay

In true Boney M style, Marc has got the menu for tonight out with mere hours to spare! To give him his due, Marc is the only one who provides photos so at least we have an idea of what the food should end up looking like!

ALL TIME FAVORITE … BRUSCHETTA

This is an easy, yet very tasty recipe that is a perfect way to start almost any meal. I have served these as appetizers at family barbecues, as well as at more formal dinner parties. The only key is to use very tasty tomatoes. I find that unless tomatoes are in season, the small grape or cherry tomatoes have the best flavor. You can also top the bruschetta with shaved Parmesan cheese, or mix some chopped capers into the tomato mixture.

:Serves 4:
Bruschetta:
1 Loaf Crusty Italian Bread -- Baguette
2 Cloves Garlic
1/2 Cup Good Olive Oil

Tomato Topping:
3 Cups Ripe Tomatoes, Cut Into 1/2 Inch Pieces
Salt & Pepper
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
3 Tablespoons Fresh, Chopped Basil

Mix together the tomato topping ingredients and set aside. Cut the bread into slices about 3/4 inches thick. Either place under a broiler, or on grill, and cook until just golden. Turn and repeat. Take the bruschetta away from heat, and first using a clove of garlic on the prongs of a fork, rub one side of each of the toasts . Next brush a little olive oil on each toast. Top with the tomato mixture and serve immediately.

SAUSAGE SPINACH RAVIOLI – FRESHLY MADE

Making your own stuffed pasta may seem like a lot of work, but once you get comfortable with the technique it actually is much easier than you would imagine and the results are well worth the effort. In this stuffed pasta recipe I made a filling of sausages and spinach and topped the tender pillows of pasta with a tasty tomato cream sauce. You can use either hot or sweet sausages depending on your preferences, and to vary the sauce, try adding 2 cups torn arugula. The peppery bite of the arugula contrasts nicely with the creamy sauce. This pasta is also delicious with a simple tomato sauce, or even an herb butter sauce.

Serves 4 to 6
Dough:
2 Cups All-Purpose Flour
3 Eggs
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil

Filling:
8 Cups Fresh Spinach, Cleaned And Coarsely Chopped
4 Large Italian Sausage Links, Removed From Casings
1 Medium Onion, Chopped
2 Cloves Garlic, Peeled And Minced
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/2 Cup Grated Parmesan Cheese
1 Egg Salt & Pepper

Sauce:
2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
2 Cloves Garlic, Minced
1/2 Tsp. Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
1 (28 ounce) Can Crushed Tomatoes
Salt & Pepper
1/2 Cup Heavy Whipping Cream
1/4 Cup Chopped Fresh Parsley (Or Basil)

Additional:
1 Egg Grated Parmesan Cheese

To Serve Combine the flour and salt on a flat work surface; shape into a mound and make a well in the center. Add the eggs and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to the well and lightly beat with a fork. Gradually draw in the flour from the inside wall of the well in a circular motion. Continue to incorporate all the flour until it forms a ball. Wrap the ball in plastic wrap and let rest 30 minutes. While the pasta is resting, prepare the filling.

Steam the spinach and drain well, pressing the spinach to remove all excess liquid. In a heavy frying pan heat the olive oil and saute the onion with the sausage meat until the onion is tender and the sausage meat lightly browned. Add the garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Place the sausage mixture, spinach, egg and cheese in a food processor and pulse just until the mixture is combined.

You want to retain a coarse mixture so be careful not to over process the filling. Cut the ball of dough in 1/2, cover and reserve the piece you are not immediately using to prevent it from drying out. Dust the counter and dough with a little flour. Press the dough into a rectangle and roll it through a pasta machine, 2 or 3 times, at widest setting. Pull and stretch the sheet of dough with the palm of your hand as it emerges from the rollers.

Reduce the setting and crank the dough through again, 2 or 3 times. Continue tightening until the machine is at the second narrowest setting; the dough should be almost paper-thin. Beat 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of water to make an egg wash.

Dust the counter and sheet of dough with flour, lay out the long sheet of pasta, and brush the top surface with the egg wash, which acts as a glue. Drop 1 tablespoon of the filling on 1/2 of the pasta sheet, about 2-inches apart. Fold the other 1/2 over the filling like a blanket. With your fingers, gently press out air pockets around each mound of filling. Use a sharp knife to cut each pillow into squares and crimp the 4 edges with the tins of a fork to make a tight seal. A fluted pastry wheel also works well to make an attractive edge around the pasta. Dust the ravioli and a sheet pan with cornmeal to prevent the pasta from sticking and lay them out to dry slightly while assembling the rest.

If not using within an hour or two refrigerate until needed. To prepare the sauce, heat the two tablespoons of oil in a heavy pot and cook the garlic for just a minute. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, and pepper flakes and cook over medium low heat for 10 minutes. Add the cream and fresh, chopped herbs and mix well. Cook over low heat an additional 10 minutes. Keep warm while you cook the pasta. Cook the ravioli in plenty of boiling salted water until tender. They will float to the top when ready, so be careful not to overcrowd the pot. Drain the ravioli and return to the pot. Pour half of the sauce mixture into the pot and carefully stir until the ravioli is lightly coated. Serve the ravioli with a spoonful of additional sauce and a sprinkling of grated cheese. Serve hot.

Poached Apricots With Mascarpone Cream

During the warmer months, I like to serve fruit for dessert, and this recipe will work for almost any summer fruit. In place of apricots, you could use peaches, pears, or plums. I dressed up this recipe with a dollop of mascarpone cream, a drizzle of fresh raspberry coulis and a sprinkling of toasted sliced almonds. For a busy weekday meal though, you could simply serve the poached fruit over a slice of angel food or pound cake.

Serves 4
8 Fresh, Ripe Apricots
2 Cups White Wine (I Used Pinot Grigio)
1 Cup Sugar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
1 Cup Heavy Cream
1 Cup Mascarpone Cheese At Room Temperature
3 Tablespoons Powdered Sugar
1 Cup Fresh Raspberries
2 Tablespoons Sugar
1/4 Cup Toasted Sliced Almonds

Place the wine, lemon juice and sugar in a shallow saucepan and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Using a sharp knife, cut a circle around the apricots and then pull apart carefully. Remove the pit, and place the apricots cut side down in the syrup. Poach for 4 minutes and then carefully turn over and continue to cook for another 4 to 5 minutes or until tender. Do not overcook as you want the fruit to remain intact.

Use a slotted spoon and remove the apricots from the syrup and set aside. Boil the syrup until it is reduced by half and has thickened. Beat the cream with a hand mixer until peaks form. Add the powdered sugar and the mascarpone cheese and mix until blended. Use either a hand wand or a small food processor and blend the raspberries and sugar until smooth.

Divide the apricots into four serving dishes, and spoon some of the syrup on top. Add a dollop of mascarpone cream on top of the apricots, and then drizzle some of the raspberry sauce over the cream. Finally, sprinkle with almonds on top of each dish. Serve immediately.

The world's hottest chili - bhut jolokia pepper

Great article by Stan Sesser in theWall Street Journal about the world's hottest chili, the bhut jolokia pepper (pictured below) from Guwahati, Assam, India.

An extract from Stan's article, "It's 200 times hotter than the jalapeño. Workers handle it with goggles and face masks. And spicy-food lovers can't wait to get their hands on it. Most admirers prefer eating them. The Indian pepper is the latest discovery by a fraternity of eaters who relish the sweaty, addictive pleasures of hot chilies."

Here's "Stan the man" bravely trying it out.



They put together a ranking chart for chilis, which is good for any chili addict to work his/her way up. Beware!


On top of a killer recipe for Texas Beef Chili by chef Robert Del Grande, using Mexican Guajillo chilies, the article mentions two sites that specialise in spicey foods: burnmegood.com, who describe the jolokia as "It's so hot, you can't even imagine; when you eat it, it's like dying"; and Fiery Foods.

Chez Vlada in Delivery Bay

Time to feast again in a little shire of Discovery Bay (a.k.a "Delivery Bay!"). Menu to tease your taste buds and inspire your culinary might. Photos with commentary posted on Picasa online here, fancy slideshow below!



STARTERS

• Pancetta & plum rolls
• Roasted goat cheese
• warm herb focaccia bread

SALADS

• Fresh mixed greens
• Tomato & red onions with roasted pumpkin nuts & mozzarella slices

MAINS

• Fillet mignon medallions
• Steamed & glazed vegetables

DESSERT (yes, we got there!)

• Lemon and Belgium Chocolate Ice Cream with mixed forest berries topped with warm vanilla custard